1700 Laguna St
San Francisco, CA 94115
(415) 474-2866
Before Tapas came to epitomize small plates there was Japanese food. Two pieces of Nigiri nestled on a plate. Little bowls of miso soup. Monkfish liver, three ounces worth, in a little glass dish. Of course, as with all things from the fast food soft drink to the double-tortilla burrito, Japanese food has been supersized. Bento boxes, udon specials covered in tempura, "Oh My God" rolls triple the size of the serving dishes and accommodate a new appetite. But there are still places to get small plate sushi.
Kiss Seafood is as small as its plates. In the space inside unadorned white walls, the restaurant seats eight at two tables and six at the sushi bar. Edith Piaf sang her dedication to France as we pondered the menu and the specials, written on a sticky in Japanese. Eventually, the four of us settled on the Special Omakase, the Omakase, a sashimi, and two appetizers. I cannot begin to recount every quarter-cup dish of steamed, fried or raw fish, tender cooked vegetables, or tofu islands in lightly salted soups. One highlight was the hamachi collar, crisp, lightly salty and fatty, without being greasy. The abalone special in abalone liver sauce looked as unappetizing as it sounds--cubes covered in dark green mess--despite the plating in an abalone shell on a pile of fine salt. However, it tasted fantastic, fresh and mild, with the satisfying chewy crunch of jellyfish and sea cucumber. Of course the sashimi was so fresh that even the salmon and tuna tasted like new species, and during the meal, I began to plot how to seek out more giant clam in the future. The egg custard had the beautiful, even consistency of silken tofu; one was adorned with mushrooms, the other with fish and bitter ginkgo nuts. While it was not my favorite flavor wise, the minute differences between the two similar dishes shows the chef's skill. The only thing that wasn't promptly finished and cleared was my complimentary amuse bouche. Grainy soybean porridge with glass noodles and dried scallops is very similar to a Korean breakfast that I always avoid. The waitress left it on the table for the rest of the meal--I think I may have hurt her feelings.
Be forewarned that all the a la carte entrees are raw. While two or three of the cooked appetizers would make a satisfying meal, they may not satisfy the 35$ minimum. Yes, it is expensive, but overall, the meal was exceptional. While people may complain of the price, eating at Kiss is closer to a prix fixe at Gary Danko than dinner at the neighborhood sushi bar.
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